A talented designer, artist silversmith of the mid-20th century, Gertrud Engel (1904-1983) made a huge contribution to the development of Danish jewellery art. And it is even more unfair that there is no biography of such an important figure in Danish jewelry design as Gertrud Engel. According to sources, she worked for the renowned Anton Mickelson firm from 1944 until her retirement in 1964. She marked her pieces Engel or Rougie next to the Anton Mickelson AM mark. Perhaps, she used the Rougie marking because it was a part of her family name.

Notably, Gertrud worked for Anton Mickelson at the same time with other famous modernist jewelers of the mid-20th century, who also added their mark to the company’s stamp. Among them, in particular, Karen Strand (1924 – 2000), Eigil Jensen (1917 – 2002), Nanna Ditzel (1923 – 2005), Jørgen Ditzel (1921-1961), Else Alfelt (1910 – 1974) and others.

Each of these jewelers created their own unique designs that cannot be confused with the work of other jewelers. Gertrude’s realistic botanical jewelry designs are also unmistakable from the work of other artists. Sterling silver bracelets, brooches, earrings and necklaces in the form of tree leaves, plants, shrubs and flowers show Gertrud Engel Rougie as an expert in botany and a lover of the nature of her native Denmark.
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Many-awarded Spanish jewelry designer Josep Maria Puig Doria (1926 – 2006) started making jewelry in 1948. Located on Avenida Diagonal in his native Barcelona, his company became a trendsetter in brutalist jewelry with modernist touches, as well as in costume jewelry. Since the mid 1960s he received the international reputation, and his jewelry business went uphill.

Although Puig Doria designed and made jewellery himself, he also relied on independent talented craftsmen to develop the design and embody it in metal. In general, this was understandable, because the growing demand for his jewelry led to an expansion of production and an increase in the administrative burden on the founder of the company. Initially, the company’s craftsmen created jewelry from silver, metal, ebony, and even from egg shells to create mosaics.

In 1971, Puig Doria developed a line of economical silver jewelry for export to the United States and West Germany under the Puig Doria brand. Puig Doria sold his jewelry in the world’s most famous showrooms, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Seven years later Puig Doria opened his namesake store in Geneva, and in 1984 in Japan.

Today, the second and third generation of Puig Doria jewelers continue the family business, creating exclusive jewelry from precious metals and stones.
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