Modernist Jewelry

Modernist Jewelry Designer Francisco Rebajes

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Modernist jewelry designer Francisco Rebajes met his wife, Pauline Schwartz, at a party in Greenwich Village during the darkest days of the Great Depression. It was love at first sight
He met his wife, Pauline Schwartz, at a party in Greenwich Village during the darkest days of the Great Depression. It was love at first sight. Americas, May 1953 photo. Modernist jewelry designer Francisco Rebajes

Born in the Dominican Republic, Francisco Torres Rebajes (1906 – 1990) was one of six children of shoe maker Antonio Torres Ros and Francisca Rebajes de Torres. He came to New York in 1923 to try his luck.

His first jobs were as a janitor, then as a grocery delivery boy, where he was fired for shoplifting. In the late twenties, the unemployed Rebajes moved to Harlem, where he slept on Harlem rooftops and in penthouse lobbies, earning his living doing odd jobs.

The Kiss modernist mid-century copper brooch pin
The Kiss modernist mid-century copper brooch pin

He eventually got a job in small cafes, then moved to larger cafes, where he was responsible for plating soups, salads, and desserts. From then on, he was called Frank, a name he liked. It was only marriage that changed Rebajes’s routine.

First creation

Despite Frank’s meager financial situation and her parents’ protests, Pauline decided to marry him. For the next two months, while he and Pauline were without any means of support, Frank tried to find a steady job. One day, he was wandering down the street and picked up some tin cans, cut them up, beat them off, and molded them into figures. His first creation was a horse.

Rocking horse modernist copper brooch pin
Rocking horse modernist copper brooch pin

Rebajes soon had a “zoo”, which he displayed on an old ironing board at the annual Washington Square Street Art Show. Among the spectators was Juliana Force of the Whitney Museum of American Art, who bought his entire collection for thirty dollars.

Maker's mark 1
Maker’s mark

With the proceeds, Rebajes rented a covered walkway between two buildings on Fourth Street in the Village. On his first day in the new building, Frank used a piece of rock as an anvil. On it, he hammered a piece of aluminum into an ashtray, which he promptly sold for thirty-five cents. He also made new objects in the shape of animals and fish.

Comedy and tragedy modernist copper tie clip
Comedy and tragedy modernist copper tie clip

First Customers

His first customers were Village intellectuals who understood what real art was. Soon The Latin Quarterly wrote about the talented craftsman. “Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Francisco Rebajes in his tiny shop… You can actually buy a souvenir there that is definitely made by the artist…”

Mask faces copper bracelet
Mask faces copper bracelet

Modernist copper clip on earrings
Modernist copper clip on earrings

A year later, Frank had earned enough money to rent a store next door. He began using brass and began to collect an extraordinary collection of hammers and tools, essential to the originality of his creations. Soon he was able to buy another shop, hire one or two of his own employees, install machines. Frank’s business grew so quickly that he was soon able to move to Fifth Avenue.

Business on Fifth Avenue

Leaf rectangle sterling silver brooch
Leaf rectangle sterling silver brooch

By 1935, he was hiring workers to make jewelry while continuing to design and sell jewelry. His work grew, and he sold his unique pieces throughout the United States. In 1937, he won a prize at the International Exhibition in Paris, and these pieces were soon displayed at the Metropolitan Museum.

Jewelry Store of Tomorrow - the Rebajes store at 377 Fifth Ave., New York. Jeweler's Circular, February 1942 note
Jewelry Store of Tomorrow – the Rebajes store at 377 Fifth Ave., New York. Jeweler’s Circular, February 1942 note

In the early 1960s, he sold the business to his manager Otto Bade. He then moved to Spain, the homeland of his ancestors, where he lived and worked until his death in 1990.

Rebajes Modernist Jewelry and Ads
Abstract leaf copper brooch pin
Abstract leaf copper brooch pin
Rebajes Vogue December 1942 ad
The Kiss, Vogue December 1942
African tribal woman copper brooch
African tribal woman copper brooch
Rebajes Vogue December 1945 ad
Vogue December 1945
Fleur de Lis rectangle sterling silver brooch pin
Fleur de Lis rectangle sterling silver brooch pin
Rebajes Vogue May 1943 ad
Vogue May 1943
Guitar abstract design copper brooch pin
Guitar abstract design copper brooch pin
Mid-century modernist copper brooch
Mid-century modernist copper brooch
Palette and paintbrush copper enamel brooch
Palette and paintbrush copper enamel brooch
Spiral rope rectangle copper brooch
Spiral rope rectangle copper brooch
Rebajes Vogue December 1944 ad
Vogue December 1944 ad
Maker's mark
Maker’s mark