Modernist Jewelry

Renoir of California Modernist Artisan Jewelry

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Renoir of California Modernist Artisan Jewelry
Mask copper lapel pin. Renoir of California Modernist Artisan Jewelry

The history of Renoir of California jewelry company located at 6725 Santa Monica Boulevard, Los Angeles, began in 1942. Its founder was Jerry Felsentein (1917 – 1996), better known as Jerry Fels.

Born in Brooklyn, American costume jewelry designer Jerry Fels studied fine art in New York, in Art Students’ League and National Academy of Design. Jerry Fels began his career as a freelance designer for New York stores. He moved to California in 1942, where he, in partnership with his brother-in-law Curt Freiler and Nat Zausner, established “Renoir of Hollywood”.

May 1944 ad
Handmade costume ensemble in garland pattern in copper. Choker retails about $8, bracelet $5, and earrings $2.50. From Renoir of California, 6725 Santa Monica Blvd., L. A. May 1944 ad

Noteworthy, the first mention of the company was in May 1944 in the Jewelers’ Circular, featured in the category “They are New”. The ad presented handmade costume jewelry ensemble in garland pattern in copper – choker, bracelet and earrings.

In 1943 Renoir of Hollywood moved to Santa Monica Boulevard, and changed its name to “Renoir of California”. Five years later the firm moved to Hollywood Boulevard.

November 1951 ad
“Twilight” solid copper ensemble of necklace and earrings in leaf design. Necklace is $5 and earrings $2. By Renoir of California, Inc., Los Angeles, 4577 Hollywood Blvd. November 1951 ad

Artisan Jewelry by Renoir of California

Located on Boudrie Street, Los Angeles, Renoir of Hollywood was a jewelry firm on manufacture of artistic pieces with hand-crafted appeal. Although the influence of the Arts & Crafts movement in jewelry waned during World War II, Jerry Fels continued to work in this style, adapting his pieces to the modernist style.

Charm September 1958 ad
Charm September 1958 ad

The company’s jewelry contrasted with the typical post-war costume jewelry glittering with rhinestones and gilding. Undoubtedly, avant-garde, modernist, and brutalist jewelry was chosen by those who rejected tradition and wanted to look original.

September 1950 Vogue ad
September 1950 Vogue ad

Trademarks by Renoir

Renoir of California trademarks
Renoir of California trademarks

In 1952 Renoir of California moved to 1755 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles. The same year Renoir started Matisse Ltd jewelry line, made from copper but with the addition of enamel. In 1958 Renoir firm registered three more trademarks – Sauteur, Copperwood, and White Copper by Renoir.

Copyright Entries, 1957
Copyright Entries, 1957

Among most notable artisans, designers and enamelists of Renoir of California jewelry firm was Curt Freiler, who sheared, soldered, hammered, and polished all items by hand. Curtis Tann was responsible for enameling work.

Despite the fact that the main material of these ornaments is copper and metal, today they are highly collectible and sometimes cost more than gold ornaments, due to their artistic value.

Renoir Maker's mark
Maker’s mark

Modernist Artisan Jewelry by Renoir of California

Copper circles cuff bracelet
Copper circles cuff bracelet
Copper jewelry by Renoir, 1958 ad
Stunning new collection of Copper jewelry by Renoir, 1958
Geometric design swirl copper clip-on earrings
Geometric design swirl copper clip-on earrings
Jewelry by Matisse Vogue February 1958 ad
Jewelry by Matisse Vogue February 1958
Artist's palette copper brooch
Artist’s palette copper brooch
Sauteur Sterling silver jewelry Vogue November 1958 ad
Sauteur Sterling silver jewelry Vogue November 1958
Apple abstract design brooch pin
Apple abstract design brooch pin
Enchanting leaf design by Renoir 1959 ad
Enchanting leaf design by Renoir 1959
Cuff bracelet of copper
Cuff bracelet of copper
Vogue November 1956 ad
Vogue November 1956
Modernist copper enamel bracelet
Modernist copper enamel bracelet
September 1956, Vogue
September 1956, Vogue
Copper belts, Mademoiselle May 1958
Copper belts, Mademoiselle May 1958
Spiral design copper cufflinks
Spiral design copper cufflinks
Vogue November 1956
Vogue November 1956
Swirl copper enamel brooch
Swirl copper enamel brooch
Vogue February 1957
Vogue February 1957
Wave design copper cuff bracelet
Wave design copper cuff bracelet
Flamingo necklace, Vogue February 1957
Flamingo necklace, Vogue February 1957
Matisse Renoir maker's mark
Matisse Renoir maker’s mark