Antique Jewelry

Trabert & Hoeffer Jewelry Company History

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Garbo is wearing authentic Napoleon jewels from the collection of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc., in her role of Madame Walewska, 1937. Trabert & Hoeffer Jewelry Company History
Garbo is wearing authentic Napoleon jewels from the collection of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc., in her role of Madame Walewska, 1937. Trabert & Hoeffer Jewelry Company History

It is generally accepted that the history of the Trabert & Hoeffer jewelry company began in 1926. However, this is not entirely true. In fact, its history began in 1921, when Rudolph J Trabert established Trabert and Plimpton firm, Fifth Ave, at 44th Street, New York city.

Rudolph J Trabert (1869 – 1930) was a second-generation jeweler whose father Anton Trabert owned a jewelry store A Trabert at 305 Bleecker Street, New York. In 1894 Rudolph Trabert joined his father’s business, and the firm changed name to A Trabert & Son. Later, Anton Trabert admitted that his son “has made extensive alterations in his store”.

Rudolph J. Trabert joined his father's business, June 1894
Rudolph J. Trabert joined his father’s business, June 1894

Notably, before joining his father’s business, Rudolph Trabert already had extensive business experience. For many years, he worked at A. Frankfield & Co., jewelers, 52 W. 14th St., New York, and then with Mrs. T. Lynch, a jeweler at 1127 Broadway.

Trabert and Plimpton

Trabert and Plimton, House & Garden, December 1921
Trabert and Plimton, House & Garden, December 1921

After his father’s death, Rudolf Trabert joined the well-known company Black, Starr & Frost, where he worked for about ten years. It was an important stage in his jewelry career. Later, when he founded his own business, he constantly referred to his experience working for the Black Starr and Frost in his advertisements.

In 1921, Rudolph Trabert established the firm Trabert and Plimpton, Fifth Ave, and 44th Street, New York city. The partnership lasted for three years, and in 1924 Trabert formed the firm under his own name Randolph J Trabert Co.

Randolph J Trabert Co

Established in 1924 Randolph J Trabert Co
Established in 1924 Randolph J Trabert Co

Meanwhile, different sources use the jeweler’s name differently – as Rudolph and as Randolph. Among them, for example, House & Garden, Vanity Fair, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar.

Incorporated in 1926 Trabert and Hoeffer
Incorporated in 1926 Trabert and Hoeffer

The firm of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc specialized in designing and creating the finest, most exclusive—diamond mounted jewelry. Trabert & Hoeffer maintained branches in Paris, Chicago, Beverly Hills, California, Palm Beach, Florida, Miami Beach and Atlantic City.

Death of Rudolph J Trabert

Obituary for Rudolph J Trabert, Jewelers' Circular, April 1930
Obituary for Rudolph J Trabert, Jewelers’ Circular, April 1930
William H. Hoeffer with 200,000 karats of rough emeralds. He purchased the emeralds in Bogota and Colombia. December 1946
William H. Hoeffer with 200,000 karats of rough emeralds. He purchased the emeralds in Bogota and Colombia. December 1946

According to the New York Times, before starting jewelry business Hoeffer sang with the Metropolitan Opera Company. He became a jewelry salesman and formed a company with Duane Trabert. His partnership with Trabert lasted only 4 years. After the sudden death of Rudolph J Trabert in 1930, Hoeffer took over the company.

Trabert & Hoeffer merger with Mauboussin of Paris
Merger of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc with Mauboussin of Paris, May 1936 note
Merger of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc with Mauboussin of Paris, May 1936 note

In May 1936 William Howard Hoeffer (1891 – 1968), president of the firm, made announcement of the merger of the jewelry store of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc., 407 Park Ave., with Mauboussin of Paris, under the title Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc., Mauboussin.

The two story jewelry store of Trabert G Hoeffer, Mauboussin Inc. A white marble facade, invisible windows, a barred grill front door. June 1937
The two story jewelry store of Trabert G Hoeffer, Mauboussin Inc. A white marble facade, invisible windows, a barred grill front door. June 1937

The latest Continental ideas in jewelry design were provided for the new firm, which manufactured its pieces in New York. The first finished pieces of the new concern were exhibited the same year at its shops in 3275 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, and the Hotel Traymore, Atlantic City.

Screen Actress Jean Parker decides on a daisy motif for her white and canary diamond ensemble from Trabert & Hoeffer. October 1943
Screen Actress Jean Parker decides on a daisy motif for her white and canary diamond ensemble from Trabert & Hoeffer, October 1943

Retirement of William Howard Hoeffer
New York Times, 1946, William H. Hoeffer
New York Times, 1946, William Howard Hoeffer (1891 – 1968), president of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc, jewelers at 407 Park Avenue

After thirty successful years with the firm, Hoeffer retired in 1956.

Left to right - G. Dewey Sullivan, vice president; Wm. Howard Hoeffer, president; Walter E. Leonberger, treasurer, and L. Teddy Cohn, secretary. December 1951
Left to right – G. Dewey Sullivan, vice president; Wm. Howard Hoeffer, president; Walter E. Leonberger, treasurer, and L. Teddy Cohn, secretary. December 1951

T&HM management

In 1940 well-known jewelry designer William Edward Ruser (1908 – 1994) was vice-president and treasurer of Trabert & Hoeffer, Mauboussin. Later he opened his own business – Ruser Jewels.

In March 1957, The New York Times reported that Paul P. Russo had been elected president of Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc., retail jewelry store, at 407 Park Avenue. He formerly was vice president of the concern.

Paul P Russo worked for the company for almost 30 years, which he later headed for more than 13 years. However, a decline in demand for jewelry, which began in 1970, high rent for premises and taxes led to the closure of the company in 1971.

Pink tourmaline platinum diamond brooch
Tourmaline platinum diamond brooch

Fine Jewelry and ads

Marlene Dietrich, jewels Trabert and Hoeffer
Marlene Dietrich, jewels Trabert and Hoeffer, May 1935
Black pearl and diamonds clip, bracelet of diamond orchids, Diamond ring by Trabert and Hoeffer-Mauboussin. October 1939
Black pearl and diamonds clip, bracelet, 1939
Dolores Costello Barrymore wears emeralds and diamonds, in jewelry designed by Trabert & Hoeffer, in Paramount’s ‘Yours for the Asking.’ 1936
Dolores Costello Barrymore wears emeralds and diamonds, in jewelry by T & H, in Paramount’s ‘Yours for the Asking.’ 1936
Helen Vincent wearing 40 carat blue topaz, set with diamonds, emerald cut diamond bracelet and an emerald cut diamond ring by Trabert & Hoeffer, September 1937
Helen Vincent wearing 40 carat blue topaz, set with diamonds, emerald cut diamond bracelet and an emerald cut diamond ring, 1937
Initial clips from Reflection collection, January 1940 ad
Initial clips from Reflection collection, January 1940
Madeliene Carroll wearing carved sapphire and diamond bracelet, pin and earrings. The Motion Picture Studio Insider, January 1937
Madeliene Carroll wearing carved sapphire and diamond bracelet, pin and earrings. January 1937
Reflection, Palm Beach Life, March 1945 ad
Reflection, March 1945
Star of Burma Vogue December 1935 ad
Star of Burma, December 1935
Close-up, brooch, Vogue December 1940 ad
Close-up, brooch, 1940
Diamond, emerald sapphire and gold jewelry, Vogue December 1946
Diamond, emerald sapphire and gold jewelry, Vogue December 1946
Emerald brooch and bracelet,Vogue December 1938 ad
Emerald brooch and bracelet, 1938
Fine jewelry by Trabert and Hoeffer-Mauboussin, Vogue August 1940 ad
Fine jewelry, 1940
From Reflection jewelry line, Palm Beach Life, March 1945 ad
Reflection jewelry line, Palm Beach Life, 1945
Fur clips and earrings, Vogue October 1940 ad
Fur clips and earrings, Vogue October 1940
Gold ear clips with precious stones, Palm Beach Life, February 1945 ad
Gold ear clips with precious stones, 1945
Gold ruby diamond bracelet, Vogue April 1945 ad
Ruby diamond gold bracelet, 1945
T& H-M precious jewelry, Palm Beach Life, March 1946 ad
March 1946 ad
The most important word in jewelry today, February 1940 ad
February 1940
Vogue December 1945 ad
Vogue December 1945
Wide variety of original styles, February 1940 ad
Wide variety of original styles, February 1940 ad
Your personality in a jewel, Vogue May 1940 ad
Your personality in a jewel, Vogue May 1940
Emerald diamond gold brooch and ear clips
Emerald diamond gold brooch and ear clips
Trabert Hoeffer Spidery three-dimension clip, pearl and diamonds, Vogue November 1945 ad
Spidery three-dimension clip, pearl and diamonds, Vogue November 1945
March 1930
March 1930
Aquamarines, morganites and diamonds brooch, Vogue November 1943 ad
Aquamarines, morganites and diamonds brooch, Vogue November 1943 ad
Vogue June 1943
Vogue June 1943

Mauboussin Ads

Diamond necklace and bracelet, Vogue March 1931 ad
Diamond necklace and bracelet, Vogue March 1931
Emerald and diamond necklace, Vogue October 1930 ad
Emerald and diamond necklace, Vogue October 1930
Emerald necklace, Harper's Bazaar December 1930 ad
Emerald necklace, Harper’s Bazaar December 1930
Harper's Bazaar December 1930 ad
Harper’s Bazaar December 1930 ad
Jewelry by Mauboussin Vogue December 1930 ad
Vogue December 1930 ad
Sapphire, diamond, ruby, emerald jewels, Harper's Bazaar October 1930 ad
Sapphire, diamond, ruby, emerald jewels, Harper’s Bazaar October 1930
Stylized diamond feather, May 1951 ad
Stylized diamond feather, May 1951
Vogue January 1931 ad
Vogue January 1931