Vintage Jewelry

John Rubel Fine Jewelry Brand History

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John Rubel Fine Jewelry Brand History
Sapphires, rubies and diamonds set in gold, jewelry set, Palm Beach Life March 1945 ad. John Rubel Fine Jewelry Brand History

The history of the Rubel jewelry brand began in 1915, when Jean and Robert Rubel opened the Rubel Fréres workshop on at 22 rue Vivienne, next to the legendary Place Vendôme in Paris. In fact, the Rubel brothers were second-generation jewelers, whose father owned a jewelry store in Budapest, Hungary.

Thanks to their exceptional craftsmanship, the Rubel Frères (Rubel Brothers) soon gained an excellent reputation and became partners with Van Cleef & Arpels. The brothers created exquisite jewelry for Van Cleef & Arpels, working in partnership with designer Maurice Duvalet.

Rubel Fine Jewelry Brand
Rubel Fine Jewelry Brand

At the start of World War II, Van Cleef & Arpels relocated to New York, inviting the Rubel brothers to oversee jewelry production. The brothers’ partnership with Van Cleef & Arpels continued for another three years. It was during this period that they created the ballet line of jewelry, which has become highly collectible today.

Two Camellias diamond ruby bracelet 1942 ad
Two Camellias diamond ruby bracelet 1942 ad

The New York Times on the John Rubel brand

Registered in 1942 as Rubel Jewelry Mfg Co Inc, the brand immediately gained popularity and recognition of elite and high society. In October 1943, the New York Times published an article about the opening of the Rubel brothers’ store, describing in detail the store’s beautiful interior.

“A modern décor, combining touches of gold on blue, distinguished the interior. Open booths lined one side of the wall space of the showroom offering convenient space for personal inspection. One unusual item attracting visitors was a series of lapel pins, in flower form, in which tiny ballerinas emerged in graceful design”.

Passion Flower precious mobile clips, Palm Beach Life,  March 1945 ad
Passion Flower precious mobile clips, Palm Beach Life, March 1945 ad

Palm Beach Life magazine article and ads

In February 1944, the renowned Palm Beach Life magazine published an article about the opening of the John Rubel store . “An internationally famous firm of jewelers, John Rubel and Company of Paris, London and New York, opened their first retail establishment at 777 Fifth Avenue in New York”.

According to the article, the shop showed a fabulous collection of gems in new forms and settings, designed by craftsmen for over twenty-five years. Furthermore, the magazine featured John Rubel jewelry company in almost every issue, from 1944 to 1949.

Black enamel gold and diamonds leaf clip, Vogue March 1946 ad
Black enamel gold and diamonds leaf clip, Vogue March 1946 ad

John Rubel in Life magazine

In November 1946, Life magazine also published an article about a glittering fashion show at the John Rubel store. The show’s highlight was a handbag filled with solid gold jewelry encrusted with precious stones. Although the bag of jewelry was originally intended for sale separately, some customers purchased the complete set of 18 pieces for “slightly less than $10,000”.

Platinum bracelet, clip and ring by Rubel Creations, Palm Beach Life February 1949 ad
Platinum bracelet, clip and ring by Rubel Creations, Palm Beach Life February 1949 ad

Soon after opening a store on Fifth Avenue in New York, they opened a salon in Palm Beach and at Saks. Over the next 15 years, their success grew. However, in the mid-1950s, the brothers’ aging father asked the sons to return home, and they left for France.

Trademarks by John Rubel since 1943
Trademarks by John Rubel since 1943

In addition to John Rubel, the firm launched other trademarks on manufacture of fine jewelry in 1943. Among them were Chamberlain Necklace, Dancing Birds, Ear Ribbon, French Can Can Flower, La Danse Des Fleurs, Dancing Flowers, La Fouragere, and Les Ballet Des Diseau.

Dancing ballerina gold precious stones brooch
Dancing ballerina gold precious stones brooch

John Rubel Jewelry and Ads
Ear clips and bracelet, Palm Beach Life February 1944 ad
Ear clips and bracelet, Palm Beach Life February 1944
Brooch, ring and bracelet of diamonds, rubies and emeralds, Palm Beach Life February 1944 ad
Brooch, ring and bracelet of diamonds, rubies and emeralds, February 1944
Canary diamonds and gold jewelry, March 1947
Canary diamonds and gold jewelry, March 1947
Can-Can jewelry line, March 1944
Can-Can jewelry line, March 1944
Dancing flowers jewelry, January 1944
Dancing flowers jewelry, January 1944
Earclips in turquoise, ruby, diamond, Palm Beach Life February 1944
Earclips in turquoise, ruby, diamond, Palm Beach Life February 1944
February 1947
February 1947
Jewelry creations by Rubel, March 1946
Jewelry creations by Rubel, March 1946
Jewels of quality and value, March 1945
Jewels of quality and value, March 1945
March 1946 ad
March 1946 ad
Oriental inspiration jewelry, March 1949
East Asian inspiration jewelry, March 1949
Quality jewelry by Rubel, February 1945
Quality jewelry by Rubel, February 1945
Ribbon flower diamond white gold brooch
Ribbon flower diamond white gold brooch
Ribbon design jewelry, January 1947 ad
Ribbon design jewelry, January 1947
Star clip and a roulette watch, January 1949
Star clip and a roulette watch, January 1949
Starfish earclips and bracelet, platinum and diamond clip, Palm Beach Life February 1949 ad
Starfish earclips and bracelet, platinum and diamond clip, February 1949
The Rockettes - a circle of ballerinas on a clip in gold, sapphires, rubies and diamonds, Vogue April 1946 ad
The Rockettes – a circle of ballerinas on a clip in gold, sapphires, rubies and diamonds, Vogue April 1946
Undersea Flower, January 1944 ad
Undersea Flower, January 1944
John Rubel Vogue September 1, 1945 ad
Vogue September 1, 1945
Diamond necklace, February 1945 ad
Diamond necklace, February 1945
John Rubel Necklace, Vogue November 1945 ad
Necklace, Vogue November 1945
John Rubel jewels, Vogue November 1946 ad
Vogue November 1946
John Rubel Classic design platinum and diamond jewelry, Vogue December 1946 ad
Classic design platinum and diamond jewelry, Vogue December 1946
John Rubel Gold Caterpillar Necklace Vogue December 1945 ad
Gold Caterpillar Necklace Vogue December 1945 ad
Golden throat-line caterpillar necklet and gold sunburst set with rubies and diamonds, Vogue March 1945 ad
Golden throat-line caterpillar necklet and gold sunburst set with rubies and diamonds, Vogue March 1945
Leaf drop earrings, rubies or sapphires combined with diamonds in a platinum setting, 1944
Leaf drop earrings, rubies or sapphires combined with diamonds in a platinum setting, 1944
Ruby and diamond watch on a clip of turquoise and rubies, December 1944
Ruby and diamond watch on a clip of turquoise and rubies, December 1944
Jewels by Rubel, Vogue January 1946
Jewels by Rubel, Vogue January 1946