Forgotten Jewelers

Manhattan jeweler Edwin H Tompkins

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Manhattan jeweler Edwin H Tompkins
Dallas designer Katherryn Hernan wearing Tompkins jewelry, Redbook magazine, November 1940. Manhattan jeweler Edwin H Tompkins

Edwin Harold Tompkins (1898 – 1971) was born to Charles Henry Tompkins and Hester J. Cooper. He spent his childhood in Fishkill, Duchess, New York. His name was first mentioned in the Jewelers’ Circular in 1918 as a jewelry industry representative who purchased Liberty Loan Bonds for $100 as a show of patriotism.

Edwin Tompkins began working in the jewelry business quite early, and he also married early. He married for the first time in June 1917, at the age of 19. The wedding took place in New York City. Later, in 1926, his wife, Carmen Holmes Tompkins, obtained a divorce from him in Paris.

Lilies-of-the-valley brooch and bracelet set with diamonds, Vogue October 1939
Lilies-of-the-valley brooch and bracelet set with diamonds, Vogue October 1939

Establishment of Tompkins, Neely & Ackerland

Aged 18, Tompkins began his career at the renowned Dreicer & Co., 560 Fifth Ave., New York jewelry company, where he worked until 1922. In January 1923, Tompkins, along with M. T. Ackerland and Robert C. Neely, who had also previously worked at the Dreicer jewelry company, established “Tompkins, Neely & Ackerland” company with capital of $ 400,000 in New York City.

They were dealers in pearls, emeralds and other precious stones, with offices at 565 Fifth Avenue, New York. Tompkins was president, Robert C. Neely – vice – president, and M Thomas Ackerland – secretary and treasurer. M. Thomas Ackerland was formerly advertising manager of the Fleischmann Company, New York, and foreign sales manager of the Mennen Company of Newark.

Jewelry business of Edwin H. Tompkins

Incorporation of the jewelry business of Edwin H. Tompkins, April 1925
Incorporation of the jewelry business of Edwin H. Tompkins, April 1925

However, the partnership of Tompkins, Neely & Ackerland did not last long. Edwin H Tompkins started jewelry business under his own name, which was incorporated at Albany, N. Y., in 1925. His new partners were J. Thuem and E. W. Lovejoy. They capitalized the business with with $500 shares and $1,000 common stock.

Tompkins traveled regularly to Paris and had offices on Place Vendôme. A significant part of his business consisted of importing fine jewelry from the finest French ateliers and wholesale distribution to many renowned American jewelers, as well as retailing such jewelry under his own name on East 57th Street.

New York is Everybody's Town, 1931
New York is Everybody’s Town, 1931

Edwin H Tompkins’s shop

Edwin H Tompkins’s shop was a delight for both its interior and its contents. He possessed truly unique pieces of jewelry, worthy of the finest museums. Among them, for example, was a double necklace of fifty-six egg-sized emeralds collected by Shah Jahan, the builder of the Taj Mahal, who gave the necklace to his wife. Tompkins also owned a magnificent necklace given by Napoleon to his second wife Marie Louise at the birth of their child.

Edwin H. Tompkins A new jewellers’ shop on East Fifty-Seventh Street, Vogue February 15, 1931
Tompkins’ shop on East Fifty-Seventh Street, Vogue February 15, 1931

The innovative jewelry display system in Tompkins’s shop was awe-inspiring. Clear glass panels beautifully showcased mounted on them bracelets, brooches, necklaces, earrings, and rings. In addition to jewelry, the store also featured the finest examples of antique English silver.

Betty McLauchlen wearing jewelry by Edwin H. Tompkins, Harper's Bazaar, July 1940
Betty McLauchlen wearing jewelry by Edwin H Tompkins, Harper’s Bazaar, July 1940

Store closing

Thompson closed the shop before 1950. He traveled frequently to Europe, had office in the Place Vendôme, buying and selling precious stones and representing famous jewelry houses, including Boucheron.

JCK November 1951
JCK November 1951

In November 1951 Van Cleef & Arpels of Texas opened a subsidiary of the well-known international Jewelry concern at 1407 Commerce in the Magnolia Building. I. M. Goodman and Edwin H Tompkins, veteran members of the Van Cleef & Arpels organization, were in charge of the store.

Catalog of Copyright Entries, 1969
Catalog of Copyright Entries, 1969

Tompkins had a high reputation in the jewelry industry. He served on the board of the Jewelers’ Trade Association, lectured, and wrote a book “Systematic Stock Trading” in 1969. Edwin Harold Tompkins died in November 1971, in Pinellas, Florida, United States, at the age of 73.

Edwin H Tompkins Dallas designer Katherryn Hernan wearing Edwin H Tompkins jewelry, Cover of Redbook magazine, November 1940
Dallas designer Katherryn Hernan wearing Edwin H Tompkins jewelry, Cover of Redbook magazine, November 1940
Vogue May 1931
Vogue May 1931
Anita Colby wearing sapphire and diamond jewels by Edwin H. Tompkins, 1939
American model and actress Anita Colby wearing sapphire and diamond jewels by Edwin H Tompkins, 1939