Forgotten Jewelers

Renowned American Jewelry Designer Sol P. Kaufman

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Renowned American Jewelry Designer Sol P. Kaufman
Star sapphires jewelry, May 1960 ad. Renowned American Jewelry Designer Sol P. Kaufman

Soloman Kaufman, aka Sol P. Kaufman (1902 – 2010), was the leading New York jewelry designer and creator of original jewelry. Remarkably, Sol Kaufman enjoyed a long creative and family life, worthy of a Guinness World Record. Sol married Molly (1919 – 2019) in 1938 and lived with her for nearly 72 years, until his death in 2010. They had three children—two daughters and a son.

He studied at the National Academy of Design and Cooper Union. Then, in the early 1920s, he became affiliated with the jewelry industry and launched out for himself with Gem Creations, a design service which others continued for the jewelry trade.

Sol P. Kaufman (1902 - 2010)
Sol P. Kaufman (1902 – 2010)

For several years, until 1942, Sol Kaufman was the head of the jewelry design department of Kaye-Jordan Co. Headed by Robert M. Jordan, Kaye-Jordan Co was style and design consultants at 303 Fifth Ave., New York City and 87 Weybosset St., Providence. Sol Kaufman and Robert M. Jordan’s partnership ended in 1942.

Earring Creations, JCK February 1942 ad
Earring Creations, JCK February 1942 ad

On July 1st, 1942 he reopened his own office to continue the work he had done before founding Kaye Jordan Co. From that time on, Sol P. Kaufman, jewel stylist began working independently as a freelance artist. His office was located at 562 Fifth Ave., New York.

Creative Jewelry Designs by Sol P Kaufman

Inauguration necklace, March 1961 ad
Inauguration necklace, March 1961 ad

According to Sol P. Kaufman, he derived his greatest satisfaction from expressing dynamic movement in design and rhythm for fine jewelry. Kaufman worked in allied fields, such as costume jewelry, watches, watch attachments and cosmetics. However, he said, “Platinum jewelry is still my first love.”

In January 1960, Sol P. Kaufman opened a design and consultant firm at 86 Weybosset St., Providence, R. I.

Sterling Creations, July 1941 ad
Sterling Creations, July 1941 ad

Notably, he made sketches especially for Jewelers’ Circular Keystone, showing a wide range in both contemporary design and derived from the classic past. Kaufman adapted his designs based on the famous museum pieces – ancient Egyptian symbols, Grecian vases, Roman decorations, Cashmere paisleys, and more.

Juliet Prowse wearing ‘The White Rajah’ necklace combining yellow karat gold and platinum, 161 cultured pearls, 23 round rubies and 31 full-faceted diamonds
Juliet Prowse wearing ‘The White Rajah’ necklace combining yellow karat gold and platinum, 161 cultured pearls, 23 round rubies and 31 full-faceted diamonds

The design of his brooches included Aphrodite riding a sea-dragon, a Medusa head, a portrait of a III Century Roman family. The rings — a serpent-legged earth-giant, Hygeia, a theater mask of Dionysius, and Hermes playing the lyre. His modern stone or shell cameos had the same charm and flavor of classical times, coupled with modern art.

Sol P Kaufman Designs

Russian motif Creative Jewels, July 1944
Russian motif Creative Jewels, July 1944

During World War II, when the United States and Russia were allies in the fight against fascism, Sol Kaufman found inspiration in Russian folklore. He created jewelry designs inspired by onion-shaped domes of Orthodox churches, Cossack uniform, and Rimsky-Korsakoff’s fantastic ballet, Le Coq d’Or. The alexandrite was the principal gem suggested for these pieces, since it bore the name of Alexander II, after it had been discovered in the Ural Mountains on his birthday.

Amethyst for February, October 1961 ad
Amethyst for February, October 1961 ad

In addition to the design, his information on the meaning and symbolism of the stones he used was truly invaluable. Also, it was possible to learn a lot about the ancient history, culture, and traditions of many peoples. Thus, he paid tribute to ancient China, cradle of Asiatic culture. Classical Chinese design inspired his designs – the pagoda, the peacock, the dragon, the lotus. His highly-styled jewelry was in harmony with the ancestry.

August 1944 ad
August 1944 ad

Creative Jewels, March 1944
Creative Jewels, March 1944
Earrings, May 1941
Earrings, May 1941
Emerald High Fashion Design Pieces, by Sol P. Kaufman, October 1961 ad
Emerald High Fashion Design Pieces, by Sol P. Kaufman, October 1961 ad
February 1944 ad
February 1944 ad
Garnet for January 1943 ad
Garnet for January 1943 ad
June 1944 ad
June 1944 ad
Moonstones, Kaye Jordan, October 1941 ad
Moonstones, Kaye Jordan, October 1941 ad
Pearls with precious pave, 1944
Pearls with precious pave, 1944
Renaissance motif jewelry, May 1944 ad
Renaissance motif jewelry, May 1944 ad
Sol Kaufman, May 1946 ad
Sol Kaufman, May 1946 ad
September 1944 ad
September 1944 ad
The Spirit of Paris, October 1960 ad
The Spirit of Paris, October 1960 ad