Forgotten Jewelers

Chicago Jewelry Designer Leonide Cecilia Lavaron

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She was known metal worker, painter and writer, Chicago Jewelry Designer Leonide Cecilia Lavaron (1866 - 1931)
Once well known metal worker, painter and writer, Chicago Jewelry Designer Leonide Cecilia Lavaron (1866 – 1931)

Her jewelry and copper works were renowned throughout the world, but recognition only came at the turn of the 20th century. In the 1880s, Leonide Lavaron began earning a living for herself and her mother through watercolor painting. Years passed before materials for jewelry making and the necessary chemical firings became available.

Lavaron had to conduct numerous experiments before she stumbled upon the secret of “Lavaron copper” pieces. From then on, every penny she could earn she spent on achieving the desired shine and play of color. Then one day, she held an exhibition, where visitors bought up all her works. Moreover, art firms came with proposals as to the exclusive handling of her copper.

Bracelet - Vert antique gold, set with opal matrix. Fob - Hold set with Spanish topaz. Fob - Antique silver, with scarab. Bracelet - Rose gold, set with lapis lazuli and baroque pearls
Bracelet – Vert antique gold, set with opal matrix. Fob – Hold set with Spanish topaz. Fob – Antique silver, with scarab. Bracelet – Rose gold, set with lapis lazuli and baroque pearls

This became the financial starting point for her search for rare stones around the world to cut and create jewelry. She no longer needed to seek out commissions. A new aspect of her work was that other jewelers monitored her work, as well as what she purchased and how she managed the rare stones.

Carved ivory necklace, 1897
Carved ivory necklace, 1897

Teaching other jewelers the craft

Thus arose the ambition to create a guild where people who had started out like her could learn. Miss Lavaron then created her own studio where her trained assistants brought to life her designs.

The color of her jewelry is exquisite, thanks to the use of various gold alloys and unusual semi-precious stones such as obsidian, tourmaline, and topaz. The designs are varied, but the most attractive ones possess a richness and simplicity reminiscent of the early Byzantine era.

Lavaron cut all of her jewelry in Amsterdam and England, with the exception of the obsidian, which her craftsmen cut in her workshop in Chicago.

The Edmonton bulletin (1931-08-06). Body of Miss Leonide C. Lavaron, once famous designer of art jewelry, was saved from a pauper’s grave today
The Edmonton bulletin (1931-08-06). Body of Miss Leonide C. Lavaron, once famous designer of art jewelry, was saved from a pauper’s grave today

Passionate about her beloved craft, she sacrificed her personal life. Lavaron was unmarried and childless. She was nearly buried in a pauper’s grave, but friends and admirers of the talented jeweler prevented this.

Antique Jewelry by Leonide C Lavaron

Rings
Rings

1. Rose gold ring, olivines; lavender and orange pearls. 2. Rose gold ; diamonds ; baroque pearls. 3. Rose gold in serpent design ; pink tourmaline; yellow sapphires. 4. Antique silver, set with blue agate. 5. Crimson enamel, serpent design, with pigeon-blood ruby. 6. Reproduction of a ring of the Louis XIV. period (1643-1715); pierced gold; rose diamonds; opalescent pearl. 7. Banquet ring : pigeon-blood ruby and diamonds, set in platinum. 8. Leaf motif, with sapphires and diamonds. 9. Leaf motif, with diamond and East Indian sapphire. 10. Cabochon ruby, with diamonds. 11. Antique silver; Austrian opals. 12. Narcissus motif, with yellow diamond. 13. Antique Roman silver; cabochon sapphires. 14. Banquet ring ; green gold, set with jade and diamonds. 15. Rose gold ; diamonds; East Indian cream-white pearls. 16. Banquet ring; diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. 17. Pisces I sign of the Zodiac for February) ring, set with diamond.

Fobs. 1. Clover design in gold and turquoise matrix. 2. Gold, set with chrysoprase and lapis lazuli. 3. Ancient Norse design in gold, set with opal matrix
Fobs. 1. Clover design in gold and turquoise matrix. 2. Gold, set with chrysoprase and lapis lazuli. 3. Ancient Norse design in gold, set with opal matrix
Necklace of diamonds and baroque pearls in rose and cream-white tints, mounted in platinum
Necklace of diamonds and baroque pearls in rose and cream-white tints, mounted in platinum
Necklace of green gold, set with Spanish topaz
Necklace of green gold, set with Spanish topaz
Pendant in green gold set with azurite. Necklace in Roman gold, set with Spanish and Brazilian topaz
Pendant in green gold set with azurite. Necklace in Roman gold, set with Spanish and Brazilian topaz