The iconic American jewelry designer and diamond cutter, Erwin Pearl (1925 – 2023) was born in Austria and came to the United States at the age of 20. For several years, Pearl worked in New York City jewelry firms, honing his skills as a diamond cutter and jeweler.

Pearl founded his own company, Erwin Pearl, at 10 West 47th Street, New York, in 1952, which soon became renowned not only in New York and the United States, but also in Europe. In 1960 the firm moved to larger premises at 5 East 47th Street.

The first mention of the Erwin Pearl jewelry collection in Jeweler’s Circular appeared in 1955. It was a spectacular palladium flower brooch, adorned with a 1.80-carat center diamond and 155 other round, baguette, and marquise-cut diamonds, priced at $4,950.

Diamonds-International Awards

In 1957, he designed a unique pair of diamond clip-on earrings, presented at the Diamonds-International Awards at the Waldorf Hotel on October 1. The leaves of the honey locust tree were formed by marquise-cut diamonds, and a ribbon of baguette-cut diamonds hung from them. In November 1959, his exquisite platinum and diamond brooch, valued at $19,500, also won a prize.

Several other jewelry pieces won prizes in 1959. Among them was a sculptural orchid bracelet in gold with a Florentine finish and 48 round brilliant diamonds in palladium settings, valued at $2,400. Also, a women’s sculptural ring with a palladium leaf encrusted with diamonds and sapphires.

Other winners included a graceful textured palladium bell with a sapphire pendant and a white gold chain, valued at $29.50. In addition, a textured palladium and gold brooch with a three-dimensional effect, valued at $1,185.

Costume jewelry

Having begun producing luxury jewelry made of gold, platinum, and diamonds, Erwin Pearl’s company expanded its range within a few years to include runway and costume jewelry. Since 1970, his high-quality jewelry has become accessible not only to show business and political celebrities.

For more than half a century, Erwin Pearl’s concern has registered more than thirty trademarks for the production of costume jewelry. One of them, Bettina (1978), was named after his late wife Bettina. Other trademarks included Fashion Lite (1994), Look of Gold, The Look of Silver, Bead Street (1995), and Sheffield Gold (1996). Also, Inklings, White House Collection (1997), Purely Silver, Marcel Duval, Everyone Needs A Hug (1998), and twenty more.

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