Vintage Jewelry

Du Jay Costume Jewelry History

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Du Jay Costume Jewelry History
Rhinestoned earrings, Vogue August 1947 ad. Du Jay Costume Jewelry History

The history of the Du Jay jewelry brand began in 1933 in New York City. Its founders were Jacques H Leff (1893-1971) and Jules Hirsch (1878-1952), jewelers who previously worked with diamonds and platinum at Hirsch & Leff, 62 W. 47th Street, New York.

A talented designer, Jacques Leff began his career in the jewelry business in 1912, working for his father, Samuel Leff (1872-1933) at 211 Brook Avenue, Bronx. In 1915 his firm S. Leff & Son moved to 446 East 38th Street. The same year his son Jacques Leff continued the diamond setting business at 133 Canal Street.

Lily of Valley golden spray with enamel leaves, pearl flowers, Vogue December 1939 ad
Lily of Valley golden spray with enamel leaves, pearl flowers, Vogue December 1939 ad

Jacques H Leff

In 1918 Jacques Leff joined Sidney Kaufer & Co, New York, where he worked for 5 years. Then, in 1923, he received a partnership in the jewelry firm Esh Co, 110 West 40th St, where he was vice-president.

At every stage of his career, Jacques Leff acquired invaluable knowledge, from business management to establishing trade relations, while traveling extensively across the country as a sales representative. From the very beginning of his work he was also involved in jewelry design.

World War badge design patented in July 1918, inventor J H Leff
World War badge design patented in July 1918, inventor J H Leff

Patented designs

According to Patent Office records, Jacques H Leff patented his first badge design in 1918 in partnership with R.H. Spira. Later, from 1938 to 1940, he patented his unique jewelry designs, primarily figural and floral brooches.

Geometrical designs by Hirsch & Leff. February 1930 ad
Geometrical designs by Hirsch & Leff. Floral decoration of sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. Choker with triangular diamond. Crystal, pearls, fancy cut stone earring, ring, and shoulder pin. February 1930 ad

Hirsch & Leff

In 1927 Jacques Leff and his partner Jules Hirsch established Hirsch & Leff, platinum and diamond firm at 62 W. 47th Street, New York. Their precious jewelry pieces were featured in the Jeweler’s Circular February 1930: Geometrical designs by Hirsch & Leff.

The new show rooms of Du Jay, Inc., manufacturers of novelty jewelry, August 1935 note
The new show rooms of Du Jay, Inc., manufacturers of novelty jewelry, August 1935 note
Du Jay, Inc

In 1933, Hirsch and Leff decided to begin producing original costume jewelry under the Du Jay style, aimed at wholesale buyers. Along with the costume jewelry business, they began a complete renovation of the office and showrooms for the new company, Du Jay, Inc.

In August 1935, they announced the opening of the company’s new showrooms, located on the 15th floor of 37 West 47th Street. The offices and showrooms were paneled in American walnut, and the large showroom overlooked the rooftop garden.

Their range of original jewelry, crafted from sterling silver and white metal, included clasps, bracelets, brooches, and rings inlaid with synthetic materials imitating all types of precious stones.

1952 Directory of Manufacturing Firms in New York State
1952 Directory of Manufacturing Firms in New York State

According to 1952 Business Directory, Du Jay Inc, the novelty jewelry firm located at 37 W. 47th St, NYC 19, was still active. The firm employed 25 people, with Jacques H Leff as sales manager, and Jules Hirsch – Purchasing Agent. However, this was the last year for one of the founders of this brand, Julius Hirsch, who died in 1952, at the age of 74.

Bracelet with charms set with coloured stones by DuJay, 37 W. 47th. Vogue June 1936
Bracelet with charms set with coloured stones by DuJay. Vogue June 1936

Vintage Du Jay jewelry Ads

Advertising for Du Jay jewelry is extremely rare in fashion magazines, however, it has occasionally appeared, particularly in Vogue magazine, The New Yorker, and some others. The last mention of the Du Jay, Inc, manufacturers of novelty jewelry in business directories and reference books dates back to 1965. Thus, the company ceased to exist before 1970.

Patented in 1939-40 designs for brooches
Patented in 1939-40 designs for brooches
St. Louis Post-Dispatch November 1958 ad
St. Louis Post-Dispatch November 1958 ad
The New Yorker November 1958 ad
The New Yorker November 1958 ad

Vintage Costume Jewelry by Du Jay Inc

Aster flower gold tone enamel rhinestone brooch pin
Aster flower gold tone enamel rhinestone brooch pin

Bluebell flowers rhinestone pave enamel brooch
Bluebell flowers rhinestone pave enamel brooch
Dogwood flower baguette rhinestone pave gold tone brooch pin
Dogwood flower baguette rhinestone pave gold tone brooch pin
Flower spray sterling silver pave enamel green glass brooch pin
Flower spray sterling silver pave enamel green glass brooch pin
Horse rider enameled rhinestone pave brooch
Horse rider enameled rhinestone pave brooch
Monkey Coconut tree enamel rhinestones pearls brooch pin
Monkey Coconut tree enamel rhinestones pearls brooch pin
Pears green enamel leaves rhinestone pave brooch
Pears green enamel leaves rhinestone pave brooch
Rose branch rhinestone pave enamel sterling silver brooch
Rose branch rhinestone pave enamel sterling silver brooch
Sunflower enamel rhinestone fur clip
Sunflower enamel rhinestone fur clip
Water carrier pink jelly belly rhinestones silver tone brooch pin
Water carrier pink jelly belly rhinestones silver tone brooch pin
Maker's mark
Maker’s mark