Vintage Jewelry

Hess-Appel Inc Jewelry Company History

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Hess-Appel Inc Jewelry Company History (1934 - 1956)
Spring Treasures, Sterling silver, gold and rhodium plated lapel pins, Vogue May 1947 ad. Hess-Appel Inc Jewelry Company History (1934 – 1956)

The first mention of the Hess-Appel Corporation appeared on January 18, 1934, in The New York Times. Registered at 28 W. 36th Street, Hess-Appel manufactured and distributed jewelry and novelties. The corporation’s founders were Lester L. Hess (1889 – 1979) and Jacob (Jack) H. Appel (circa 1890 – 1960).

Before founding the Hess-Appel company, Lester Hess had extensive experience in all areas of the jewelry business. Thus, he worked at various times as a designer, sales representative, travel agent, jeweler, and manager. According to Jewelers’ Circular, 1915, Lester L. Hess co-founded Rosenberg & Hess, a jewelry and hair ornament manufacturer located at 4 W. 37th St., New York.

Rosenberg & Hess, September 1915 note
Rosenberg & Hess, September 1915 note

Then, Lester Hess worked for another well-known New York jewelry company, Rice & Hochster, at 483 & 485 Broadway. The firm specialised in importing and manufacturing of tortoise shell goods.

JCK April 1922 note
JCK April 1922 note

In 1922, Lester Hess and Jacob E Weiner founded Hess & Wiener with a capital stock of $55,000. Registered at 43 West 16th Street, New York City, the company manufactured hair ornaments and costume jewelry. Lester Hess served as president and treasurer, and also managed the factory; Jacob E. Wiener served as secretary.

The New York Times May 1936
The New York Times May 1936

Hess-Appel Inc

Established in 1934, Hess-Appel Inc initially employed approximately 10 people. By August 1941, Hess-Appel employed 28 people, according to the New England Manufacturing Jewelers’ and Silversmiths’ Association, of which Hess-Appel was a member. A significant moment in the company’s history came in 1941, thanks to two events.

First, Hess-Appel launched Jolle jewelry line, for some reason registered by the Canadian Patent Office Record and Register of Copyrights. Second, the company began collaborating with the talented designer George E. Fearn.

Jewelry for Forty-One by George E Fearn, January 1941
Jewelry for Forty-One by George E Fearn, January 1941

Designs by G.E.Fearn, assignor to Hess-Appel firm
Designs by G.E.Fearn, assignor to Hess-Appel firm

Jewelry Designer George E. Fearn

George E. Fearn made a significant contribution to the development of the Hess-Appel jewelry firm, which produced jewelry under the Jolle brand. A native of Austria, George Fearn left the country before the outbreak of World War II. Trained as an architect, he became interested in jewelry and accessory design.

He lived in Paris for a year and worked with French manufacturers until September 1, 1939. After moving to New York with his wife, he began creating designs for several jewelry firms and fashion houses. In 1941, he became the chief designer at Hess-Appel Inc.

Designs invented by Lester Hess in 1940-1946
Designs invented by Lester Hess in 1940-1946

Patented Designs

It’s worth noting that Lester Hess, president of the Hess Appel company, created beautiful jewelry and was the author of several patented designs. These patents provide an insight into the artistic diversity of jewelry created by both George E. Fearn and Lester Hess.

Notably, The Trader and Canadian Jeweller magazine mentioned Hess – Appel, New York, N.Y. in 1956 as active. There are no later references to the Hess Appel corporation.

Jolle and Hess-Appel Jewelry and ads
Apple pin, lucite and gold plated sterling
Apple pin, lucite and gold plated sterling
Dawn of Spring rhodium plated sterling pins, Vogue March 1947 ad
Dawn of Spring rhodium plated sterling pins, Vogue March 1947 ad
Cossac dancer enameled rhinestone gold plated sterling brooch pin patented in 1943
Cossac dancer enameled rhinestone gold plated sterling brooch pin patented in 1943
George E Fearn Jewelry Designs, April 1941
George E Fearn Jewelry Designs, April 1941
Flower sterling silver amber rhinestone brooch pin
Flower sterling silver amber rhinestone brooch pin
Jewelled spray as a tie-pin, Vogue May 1947 ad
Jewelled spray as a tie-pin, Vogue May 1947 ad
Flying Angel enamel rhinestone sterling pin
Flying Angel enamel rhinestone sterling pin
Vogue February 1947 ad
Vogue February 1947 ad
Ladybug on flower gold tone enameled ear clips
Ladybug on flower gold tone enameled ear clips
Harper's Bazaar March 1947 ad
Harper’s Bazaar March 1947 ad
Folk dancer enameled rhinestone gold plated sterling brooch pin patented in 1943
Folk dancer enameled rhinestone gold plated sterling brooch pin patented in 1943
Maker's mark
Maker’s mark Jolle Sterling